Mexico Journal: 14 Abril 06

Amy wrote:

The report after two full days in Oaxaca: The first we spent in markets and visiting El Arbol de Tule. Despite the laughter from our friends when we told them we were visiting a giant tree, it was great. They're jealous, we know.

The famed Tule. Called the oldest tree in North America. Like many Americans, it's wider than it is tall. This shot shows about one-quarter of its diameter.

Amy on the zocalo, annoyed that I'm taking her picture before the morning coffee has worked its magic.

Mike's bag visits Tule's offspring.

The meat aisle in one of Oaxaca's largest markets. In a row of roughly 30 such vendors, we saw one cold case. Americans are so pampered.

The best part of the trip to Tule (aside from photographing our friend Mike's bag at the site) was sitting at a roadside cafe afterward. We drank a couple of beers and watched as at least two generations of women cooked tlayudas and quesadillas. They worked over a hot bed of coals, making everything down to the tortillas as came in from a table two feet behind them. The oldest woman would throw a ball of masa onto a press and squash it two or three times. Then she cooked the tortilla on a flat pan (similar to a round pizza pan) over the coals. Once that was done, she added Oaxacan string cheese and squash flowers.

After watching all that, we had to order one. It was fabulous.

Tlayudas are one of the main dishes of Oaxaca. They are a large (12"-14" in diameter) crispy tortilla topped with smooth black beans, Oaxacan cheese, slices of tomato, avocado and a grilled flank steak.

The woman use a grill basket when they cook the steak. They place the basket directly on the coals so they can keep cooking atop the pan. After assembled, the tlayuda is placed on the top level of the grill to warm. The women have a bowl of water to rinse their hands, but seem to have no worries about bouncing from the raw meat to the finished dishes.

The old woman used no utensils. She flipped the tortillas and the quesadillas by hand. OUCH!

They keep towels over the ingredients to keep bees off them. And there is a knife they share to slice each tomato and avocado. They make the cuts while holding them in the palm of their hand; no cutting boards.

Back in the city, we had squash flower soup at dinner. Very good. And nice to get some greens.